The haricot tarbais is no ordinary bean, considered one of the finest in France, it is only grown in the Bigorre region of SW France where the soil and climate suit it’s delicate constitution. The origins of the haricot are much wider spread. It was a staple of ancient Aztec diets and reached Europe (like so many other staples) in the holds of Columbus’ ships. It appeared in Tarbes in the early 18th century - by happy coincidence at the same time as maize. The maize was used as a rustic bean pole and the two were planted together. Flourishing in the shade of the corn cobs the beans climbed upwards to reach the light while their roots were kept protected and cool.
During the 1950’s the Haricot Tarbais nearly disappeared from cultivation due to the widespread introduction of herbicides into farming and production slumped from 18,500 hectares to just 10 hectares in the 1970’s. Fortunately a few enthusiasts refused to let the special cultivar die out and current organic production is still increasing.
One white bean from another…
Whilst there are many white beans on the market – including cannelloni and butter beans – all of which can be used for this recipe. The haricot tarbais has a particularly delicate flavour. The skin is thin which means it readily absorbs water and cooks quickly, allowing the flesh to remain firm whilst retaining it's flavour. Although it's perfect in hearty winter dishes such as cassoulet and garbure it also lends itself well to this light vegetarian pâté which is perfect as a lunch or starter.
Recipe : White Bean and Rosemary Pâté
Serves 4
Prep time: 30minutes
Ingredients:
- 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 3 garlic cloves – chopped finely
- 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary – left whole
- 400g of cooked beans (liquid reserved)
- Seasoning
- Juice of 1 lemon
Method:
- Combine the oil garlic and rosemary sprigs in a saucepan and gently fry for 5 minutes. The garlic should only colour very slightly. Don’t let it burn.
- Add the beans and season. Cook for 10 minutes adding a spoon or two of the bean cooking reserve liquid if the mixtures begins to dry out.
- Remove the sprigs of rosemary and blend the mixture in a food processor.
- Add lemon juice to taste.
- Leave to chill for at least 1/2 hr.
- Drizzle with olive oil just before serving
NB: if you are using dried beans, soak them overnight in cold water and then cook until tender before adding to the mix above
To Serve: Spread on grilled bread or bruchetta that has been rubbed with garlic and half a tomato and drizzled with olive oil
Kerry Swash - After 15years working in the UK book trade and publishing world, I upped sticks and left London for rural South-West France. Five years ...
